It was easy to figure out what inspired the sexy curves and lines of Pieter Mulier’s Spring 2025 collection for Alaïa: the Guggenheim museum, where the show was held. It was the first time the winding galleries of the art institution have ever been used for a show. The question is, why now?

The Guggenheim has a tenuous relationship with fashion. While the museum frequently partners with brands as corporate sponsors (most notably Hugo Boss for the prestigious Hugo Boss Prize), its Giorgio Armani retrospective in 2000 drew harsh criticism for blurring the lines between art and commerce. It’s worth wondering how much Alaïa paid to use the space as a venue—and more importantly, how they got approval from the museum’s board.

Models walking the spiral of the Guggenheim for Alaïa.

But a lot has changed in 25 years. Most notably, that fashion exhibits have become must-have installations at museums around the world. Meanwhile, over the course of those same decades, New York Fashion Week lost a centralized “hub,” causing some brands to expand beyond the traditional runway. After years of booking ballrooms and chic restaurants, it seems the only way to up the ante is to get truly creative.

While the Italian brand Zegna did not show in New York, it did take over a few floors of Salon 94 Gallery on the Upper East Side for an experiential retail experience. Another major arts hub, The Shed, was the location of Michael Kors’s show. Less visually iconic than the Guggenheim (by design, The Shed can transform itself to host any number of events), the set designers made use of the ample space by filling it with rock sculptures for models and celebrities to pose in front of.

Models at the Michael Kors show.

But novelty, like showing at the Guggenheim, truly reigned. As previously reported, Tommy Hilfiger took over a Staten Island Ferry famously owned by SNL alums. The choice offered a unique backdrop that highlighted the beauty of an often overlooked aspect of city travel. Also often overlooked? The David N. Dinkins Municipal Building, where Prabal Gurung staged his show (pictured at top). The architecture of the space is awe-inducing, but rarely appreciated from ground level.

There’s a bit of a cliche about films set in New York, in which actors, promoting their work, will refer to the city as “another character” in the story. For the fashion industry, embracing niche aspects of NYC is a breath of fresh air. Thankfully, more city officials and board members are open to collaboration.