Over the last two decades, fashion brands have become not only a regular presence during Milan’s annual Salone del Mobile, but an integral part of the weeklong design extravaganza that takes over the city every April. This year’s edition was no different: big names in clothing and accessories popped up all over town, some bringing new furniture and products, while others brought pure, eye-popping spectacle. Here, PALMER covers the nine of the most memorable presentations of the week.
Loewe
Continuing a years-long tradition of exquisite, craft-oriented installations during Design Week, Loewe was on hand with a show of delightfully delicate stoneware teapots in the basement of the Palazzo Citterio. Work from artisans like Inchin Lee and Sakiyama Takayuki (whose ultra-creamy “Choto: Listening to the Waves” was a particular standout) sat alongside contributions from design stars including architect David Chipperfield, who was spotted making the scene at the elegant backyard vernissage.
Armani/Casa
The Milanese fashion giant was among the first major brands to break into the interior biz, andmarked the 25th anniversary of its interiors spinoff with a selection of richly embroidered, Asian-themed furniture. Some, like the deluxe Amedeo bed, were new, while others (like the low-profile, three-seat Albert sofa) were based on existing pieces. “Dialogue with the city of Milan has become an essential part of my work,” said Giorgio Armani, in a statement explaining his rationale for maintaining a presence during Salone. “The city is so alive and cosmopolitan.”
Loro Piana
There’s no easy way to explain the immersive installation that the luxury fabric and accessories company put on in the Brera neighborhood, with a big assist from theatrically-minded design specialists Dimorestudio. Visitors entered a narrow, curtained interior to view “La Prima Notta di Quiete”—an actor-less, largely voiceless melodrama that unfolded against a sumptuous background of vintage furniture, pieces from brand’s “Art of Good Living” collection, and new work from Dimore inspired by Italian Modernism.
Ralph Lauren Home
At the company’s palatial headquarters, staples from its assorted thematic collections (the beachy Island; the aristocratic Estate) are complemented by new chairs, fabrics, and objets d’art from the Canyon collection, a rustic line that Ralph Lauren himself calls his “love of the American West.” Of particular note are new, Navajo-inspired woven work from the current honorees of the brand’s artist-in-residence program, textile makers Naomi and Tyler Glasses.
Hermès
In arguably one of the best shows in Milan this year, the legendary Parisian outfit brought a treasure trove of glassware, textiles, and more to Brera’s sprawling Pelota facility. Artistic directors Alexis Fabry and Charlotte Macaux Perelman performed an architectural magic trick, with a series of all-white, box-like partitions floating in the middle of the space, each one hovering over a pool of colored light and serving as a receptacle for the work—vibrant multi-hued pieces like a Nigel Peake dinner service and side tables from Tómas Alonso.
La DoubleJ
Since its launch a decade ago as a fashion brand in Milan, American entrepreneur J.J. Martin’s company has morphed into all-around, style-and-homeware juggernaut, with a Palm Beach location set to debut shortly at the historic Royal Poinciana Playhouse. For Salone, the brand showed off its new multistory HQ, complete with rooftop penthouse and a custom meditation space offering specialized sound-healing sessions. For those with more conventional tastes, new tablewares were also on offer, glass and porcelain pieces with a soft, Italian-country flair.
Fendi Casa
Teaming up with the likes of Britain’s Lee Broom and Botswana’s Peter Mabeo, the iconic Roman fashion house (currently celebrating its 100th year) brought an ambitious array of lighting and seating to their showroom on the Piazza Della Scala. Under the direction of UK-based designer Lewis Kemmenoe, the installation was especially notable for a Soho sofa whose coverings were regularly switched throughout the day—an impressive demonstration of the piece’s versatility, as well as the depth of the brand’s fabric library.
Prada
For high-minded programming, the fourth installment of the “Prada Frames” talk series that unfolded over the earlier part of the week was as ambitious as anything Salone has seen to date. Taking place partly in the magnificent Padiglione Reale station—originally built as the private arrivals hall for the Italian king—as well as in a still spruce-looking, mid century-designed train car, the conversations were stewarded by writer Alice Rawsthorn and curator Natalia Grabowska, and covered a range of topics including AI, the future of infrastructure, and the ongoing migrant crisis.
Gucci
No one could have foreseen the high wind that would strike Gucci’s installation at the Parrocchia San Simpliciano during its debut evening. Fortunately, the work on view—all of it made from bamboo, a fitting tribute to the brand’s iconic bag handles—was all sturdy enough to withstand the bluster. The fabric-draped “Passavento” screens by Nathalie Du Pasquier lived up to their name, while the custom kites from Dutch interdisciplinary team Kite Club whipped around merrily. Even the large, fabric-bound central pavilion structure (designed by the show’s curator, creative agency 2050+) held up, although laddered attendants did appear on the scene to do a little patch work.