The opening week of the 61st Venice Biennale once again transformed Venice into the center of the art world, though according to PALMER Editorial Director Stefano Tonchi, this year the most compelling conversations were often happening outside the Biennale itself. “More than ever before, the rest of Venice felt bigger than the Giardini and the Arsenale,” he observed after several packed days moving between palazzos, foundations, pavilions, dinners, and private events across the city. “The strongest shows were elsewhere.”

Palm Beach, naturally, was well represented. One of the opening week’s major events was the Venetian Heritage gala sponsored by Dior, which this year raised funds for the continued restoration of Venice’s Ca’ d’Oro palace. Hosted by Peter Marino, president of Venetian Heritage, the dinner brought together the worlds of fashion, collecting, philanthropy, and contemporary art against the backdrop of the Biennale.

Dries Van Noten and Diane von Furstenberg were among those attending, alongside a notable Palm Beach contingent that included Cornelia Guest and Hilary Geary Ross and Wilbur Ross. “Peter Marino had all his ladies there,” Tonchi joked. The event also reflected the increasingly central role luxury houses now play in Venice’s preservation efforts, with Dior continuing its longstanding partnership with Venetian Heritage and its restoration projects throughout the city.

Here, Tonchi shares his highlight with me and anyone heading to Venice between now and the closing on November 22. Consider this your insider’s guide to the year’s strongest exhibitions.

 

Outside the Biennale: The Foundations, Palazzi, and Venetian Institutions

 

Helter Skelter: Arthur Jafa and Richard Prince
Fondazione Prada
Ca’ Corner della Regina

Photo: Andrea Rossetti

For Tonchi, one of the clearest highlights of the week was the major exhibition pairing Arthur Jafa and Richard Prince at Fondazione Prada, curated by Nancy Spector, formerly of the Guggenheim. “The real American Pavilion” as he describes it. Born a decade apart, Prince and Jafa share a method that lifts material from the wider visual culture, photographs, films, album covers, news reels, and refits it as art. The pairing reads as a thirty-year conversation between two pop-culture pirates who arrived at similar conclusions from opposite directions, one through still images and one through moving ones.

 

Lorna Simpson: Third Person
Punta della Dogana, Pinault Collection

Lorna Simpson, Tried by Fire (detail), 2017, courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth. Installation views, Lorna Simpson. Third Person, 2026, Punta della Dogana, Venezia. Ph. James Wang © Palazzo Grassi, Pinault Collection

 

Curated by Emma Lavigne in partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Lorna Simpson’s exhibition emerged as another standout. Simpson’s ability to move between photography, film, collage, and sculpture felt especially aligned with the broader atmosphere of this year’s Venice Biennale.

 

Michael Armitage: The Promise of Change
Palazzo Grassi, Pinault Collection

Michael Armitage, Conjestina, 2017, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Accessions Committee Fund purchase. Installation views, Michael Armitage. The Promise of Change, 2026, Palazzo Grassi, Venezia. Ph. Marco Cappelletti Studio © Palazzo Grassi, Pinault Collection

 

Curated by Jean-Marie Gallais with Hans Ulrich Obrist, the show covers ten years of the Kenyan-British painter’s output across forty-six large canvases and close to a hundred sketches, where the painter’s lush, layered figurative works merge East African history, political violence, mythology, and dreamlike landscapes into psychologically charged scenes that are as seductive as they are unsettling.

 

Erwin Wurm: Dreamers
Museo Fortuny

Photo: Markus Gradwohl

This is the first major Italian survey of the Austrian sculptor’s career, curated by Elisabetta Barisoni and Cristina Da Roit. The One Minute Sculptures are present, instructing visitors to enter the work themselves with chairs, clothing, or books.

 

Georg Baselitz: Eroi d’Oro
Fondazione Giorgio Cini, San Giorgio Maggiore

Georg Baselitz, Die goldene Kittelschürze (detail), 2025. Oil and gold paint on canvas. 300 × 215 cm. © Georg Baselitz 2026. Photo: Stefan Altenberger

 

Curated by Luca Massimo Barbero, the show opened six days after Baselitz’s death in April at 88. Gilded grounds carry his outlined bodies the way medieval icons carry their saints. Many of those bodies are larger-than-life self-portraits or images of his wife Elke, his lifelong companion and model. Baselitz recorded a film for the exhibition, calling the works his last.

 

Jenny Saville and Hernan Bas
Ca’ Pesaro, International Gallery of Modern Art

© Jenny Saville. All rights reserved, DACS 2026

Saville’s first major Venetian retrospective gathers about thirty paintings and drawings from the 1990s through the present. In the same building, Bas’s The Visitors presents more than thirty new paintings about Venice and mass tourism, with the artist’s protagonists wandering between the Trevi Fountain, Alcatraz, and Chernobyl.

 

Inside the Biennale: In Minor Keys

 

Work by Nick Cave. Image credit: Nick Cave

This year’s Biennale, titled In Minor Keys, was shaped by the late curator Koyo Kouoh, whose vision was completed posthumously by her team following her untimely death last year.

The reception has been mixed; The Art Newspaper awarded three and a half stars and called the Central Pavilion poorly paced. Tonchi shares the concern. By his account, the main show is overwhelming in the wrong way, with too many works and too much figuration, and the installation is working against the art with labels, texts, and contextual information making things difficult to navigate within the density of objects and works on view.

The Arsenale fares better, paced by Kouoh’s idea of sentinel figures guiding visitors through histories of trauma. Tonchi’s standouts inside the main exhibition are Nick Cave, whose monumental Amalgam (Origin) stands at the Arsenale harbor, and Kader Attia‘s room, which operates as a political essay on repair and inheritance.

 

Pavilion Highlights

 

Holy See: The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul

Holy See: The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul
Since the jury awarded no Golden Lion this year, Tonchi jokingly offered his own unofficial prize to the Holy See Pavilion. Curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ben Vickers, the sound-based exhibition centers around the figure of Hildegard of Bingen, the medieval composer and mystic. Contributors include Patti Smith, Brian Eno, Jim Jarmusch, Meredith Monk, and the Benedictine nuns of the Abbey of St. Hildegard. The pavilion asks visitors to slow down and listen, and is, in Tonchi’s view, the year’s most surprising contribution.

Austria: Seaworld Venice

Florentina Holzinger conceived of the pavilion as simultaneously a sacred space, an underwater amusement park, and a sewage treatment plant. One of the most talked-about presentations, Tonchi describes it as “very overwhelming, very violent,” with performers appearing to move through intensely physical environments, “almost like they were swimming in their own liquid.” The result is immersive and impossible to look away from. The lines outside have been the longest at the Giardini all week.

Belgium: IT NEVER SSST
Miet Warlop‘s pavilion is also performative. Black-clad performers move continuously through a wooden armature hung with numbered towels and instruments while music, sweat, and plaster fly. Tonchi rates it among the most rigorous of the national contributions.

Italy: Con te con tutto
The Italian Pavilion is given over this year to a single artist, Chiara Camoni and the show is built from materials that came out of the hundred-square-kilometer nature reserve in the Biella Alps: ceramics made with botanical elements gathered from the Oasi, hand-woven yarns, fabrics printed with natural pigments. Canziani frames it as a refusal of singular authorship in favor of co-creation and female friendship.

Peru: De otros mundos
Sara Flores, a Shipibo-Konibo painter from the Peruvian Amazon, is the first Indigenous artist ever to represent Peru in Venice. Curated by Issela Ccoyllo and Matteo Norzi of the Shipibo Conibo Center in New York, the pavilion brings together large-format paintings on naturally dyed cotton covered in the geometric language known as kené; a suite of mosquito-net sculptures titled Untitled (The Designs Come in Dreams); and her 2025 debut film, Non Nete (A Flag for the Shipibo Nation).